We have fallen into quite the rhythm here in Cape Town, and it is beginning to feel like home. Every weekday morning after breakfast we attend a lecture from 9-11. The lectures switch between William and Mary lectures taught by Prof. Abegaz to SHAWCO lectures from visiting professors. After lecture we have a bit of time to check emails, eat lunch, and do a bit of reading before we head off to the township for volunteering from 1:30-5:30. We return to campus for dinner and then catch a cab to yoga at 7. The people at the yoga studio know us now, which is great! After yoga we do a bit more reading and studying before heading out to a club or bar.
Last week our group took an educational excursion to District 6—an area of Cape Town that was completely torn apart as blacks were deported from the area and forced to move into townships. We visited the museum and then took a bus tour around the area. It was particularly moving to me because it reminded me a lot of what happened to the Jews in Europe during the Holocaust. The deportations forced families to leave their homes, their belongings, and oftentimes split up members of the same family based on racial lines.
Teaching the kids in Khayelitsha has been an incredible experience. I feel so connected to them—especially the three kids I have been tutoring for the past week and a half. One of the activities we did was a dance routine competition. My group won the competition, with a remix of dances to Wavin’ Flag, Single Ladies, Waka Waka, Lady Gaga, and their traditional song, Sho Sholoza. We also led a structured debate with the kids, making them argue for or against a curfew for children in the township. I was especially proud of my student, Apiwue, who argued that a curfew for children in the township would be beneficial because it would keep children safe and parents at ease. We started the math unit yesterday, so I have had to brush up on my fractions and exponents so I could properly teach the children. Even though they are 14 and 15 years old, they do math at a 2nd grade level, which speaks to the inadequacy of the education system in South Africa.
This past weekend was ridiculously fun! The eight of us started early Saturday morning with an all-day shark cage diving excursion. The shark cage diving company picked us up on campus and drove us the two hours to Gansbaai. It was a beautiful drive, and we were able to see a lot of the natural terrain of the Western Cape. The sprawling hills were filled with boulders, trees, and vegetation…it almost looked like something you would expect to see in Ireland rather than in Africa. Once we arrived at the bay, they fed us breakfast and we took a 20-minute boat ride out into the bay. We spent four hours on the water, taking turns shark cage diving, eating lunch, and watching the sharks from the boat. They gave us wet suits and goggles and we jumped into the water and down into the cage, where only a few bars separated us from the HUGE Great White Sharks. I had no idea that South Africa was the shark capital of the world, but there were so many—every few minutes another shark would come toward the cage with its mouth open, hoping to catch the bait that was hanging nearby. It was a terrifyingly exhilarating experience seeing the sharks so close up. After we returned to the shore, they fed us dinner and showed us the video that was filmed of our experience before driving us back to campus. It was quite an adventure of a day.
On Sunday, we attended a service at a colored church in Manenburg, one of the relatively less-impoverished townships. Even though three out of the eight of us are Jewish, it was still very interesting to go to the community gathering, see the passion for religion that these people had, and meet more native South Africans. The people of the church were very welcoming to us, saying “God Bless America!” and “God Bless Barack Obama!” and having us each stand up and introduce ourselves to the congregation. The music was upbeat and everyone was on their feet dancing to songs about God. The preacher was loud and energetic, getting people to stand up and say “Hallelujah!” It was pretty incredible—so different than any Jewish service I have been to!
After church, my friend Hannah and I separated from the group to go to the Holocaust Museum at the Jewish Community Center in Cape Town. It is a beautiful facility, with a synagogue, library, café, gift shop, Holocaust museum, and a Jewish Museum. The Holocaust museum was small, but there was an interesting tidbit about the Jews of South Africa, which I found new and different. I hope to return to the Jewish Community Center and check out the other museum. Hopefully we will have time.
As the sun began to set, we met up with the rest of our William and Mary friends and our professor and took a cable car up to the top of Table Mountain—one of the most iconic parts of Cape Town. Exploring the top of Table Mountain at sunset was an unreal experience, and to a certain extent, it brought our entire trip full circle. I remember leaving the airport three weeks ago and the first thing I saw was Table Mountain towering over the city. It was intimidating and huge, just like the experience that lay ahead of me. Three weeks later, I looked down on the city from Table Mountain with a feeling of comfort and realization that I have come to know the city. The views from the mountain were incredible, with clear skies we could make out all parts of the city—the townships, the soccer stadium, the university, and the wealthier, gated communities. We even looked down upon Lion’s Head—the mountain we climbed at the beginning of the trip.
One week left, and still so much to do. I know it will be the best one yet.
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