Settling In and Exploring Cape Town

Studying abroad in South Africa is such a unique experience. On one hand, we are living in dorms, fed three meals a day, enjoying the social scene, shopping, and touring. On the other hand, however, we are exposed to such a different culture and quality of life.  We have been working with the people of  Khayelitsha for three days now, and the opportunity to teach them is invaluable.  While instructing the grown men and women on basic computer skills, we are able to talk, laugh, and learn about them and their background.  Today, for instance, I taught Sonele Berkumi how to create a resume. He was extremely intelligent and a very fast learner, and by the time we finished our session I knew all about his past, his favorite rugby teams, and what he wants to do with his life. He also taught me how to say “I love you” and “I’m hungry” in Xhosa!  

Every day the eight of us from William and Mary leave the township excited about what our friends have learned and what we can teach them in the days to come.  As we take the SHAWCO bus from the computer lab in Khayelitsha to the University of Cape Town, we so many shacks, homeless people, and litter.  I am quickly reminded of the difficult lives that Sonele and all our other friends lead outside of our class, and as I return to my dorm room, they must leave the computer lab to face hunger, disease, and grime.  It is truly devastating, but we are doing what we can.  Every little bit helps.  With this resume, it is possible for Sonele to get a job and perhaps move out of the township.  

Aside from the SHAWCO service-learning segment of our program, we have also been attending daily lectures from our W&M professor and other guest lecturers.  Topics range from capitalism to socialism to the development of the South African Economy and they are all very interesting and relevant to our experience in the townships and the city of Cape Town.  Having never taken a college-level Economics course, I have been focusing and trying my best to understand all the material.

On a more exciting note, we have been living it up in Cape Town every night—going out to different bars, pool halls, karaoke venues, restaurants, and clubs.  We have made friends with some of the locals here, and they have shown us their favorite venues in addition to what we have discovered on our own.  Last night we sat at a Tapas Bar for two hours, ordering appetizers, trying new cocktails, and laughing hysterically.  Sad to admit, I think we are living up to our reputation of the “crazy American college students in a foreign country” stereotype, but we are having a ridiculously great time while we are at it. The eight of us are so close already, I can imagine we are going to feel like family after a full month of experiences like the ones we have had already. 

My favorite activity we have done in Cape Town so far was our hike up to Lion’s Head—a peak near Table Mountain.  On Sunday morning, the eight of us packed into a taxi-van and took it to the base of Lion’s Head.  It took about 1 ½ hours to get to the top, and the hike involved walking uphill, climbing ladders, traversing the side of a mountain, climbing rocks, using chains to pull ourselves up, and quite a few breaks to catch our breath.  When we made it to the top, I felt so accomplished.  The view was absolutely breathtaking, with a 360-degree view of Cape Town, including UCT, the World Cup stadium, Table Mountain, and the beautiful sun setting over the ocean.  

Unfortunately, we are not allowed to upload pictures to social networking sites while on campus because of Africa’s limited bandwidth.  I will continue to post to this blog in paragraph form (words only), and I will upload pictures when I return to the States on July 23^rd.  Thank you to everyone who keeps reading!  According to Google Blogger Statistics, “Escape to the Cape” has over 1,000 views so far :)

Molo (Hello) from Cape Town!

Hello friends and family! I safely arrived in Cape Town on Thursday afternoon, and since the moment I landed at the airport I have been learning so much and having an absolutely incredible time.  I would like to sincerely apologize to all my dedicated readers for the delay in this post, but we have extremely limited access to internet at UCT so I will only be able to post every few days for the rest of the month (versus every day, like in Geneva).  


The arrival was quite an adventure.  After two delayed flights, one missed flight, one 45-minute re-booking of tickets, one lost suitcase, two layovers, and 24 hours of travel, I was beat.  Once the eight of us arrived in Cape Town, we weren't allowed to go onto campus because Michelle Obama was visiting UCT and the entire campus was blocked off. I had hoped we would be able to catch a glimpse of the first lady, but there was so much security, it was impossible.  


Cape Town is unlike anything I could have imagined. The terrain is breathtaking, with huge mountains that can be seen from anywhere in the city, sprawling greenland with wild animals, and trees that remind me of those in Lion King. At the same time, however, Cape Town is completely developed and modern!  There are trendy cafes, skyscrapers, and universities. The people here are so friendly and welcoming, and their accents sound like a cross between Australian and British, except a bit harsher. There is an extremely interesting racial dynamic, which I will attempt to touch on more in later posts. 


June 24th, 2011
During our first full day in Cape Town, we visited two townships near the city: Khayelitsha and Manenberg.  We will be working in Khayelitsha throughout our time in South Africa, so this visit was our first exposure to the types of people and environment we will be experiencing.  As we drove through the townships, I was overcome with emotion. It is one thing to see pictures in magazines or scenes in movies in which people live in shacks and on the streets, but to witness it in person is completely different.  The immense poverty, terrible health conditions, and lack of privacy and space that these South Africans experience in their daily life is unfathomable.  When we pulled up to Manenburg, seven or eight children ran up to our bus with huge smiles on their faces.  The shook our hands, introduced themselves, and thanked us for coming.  While we listened to the SHAWCO representative speak, two seven-year-old girls came up and put their arms around me.  They were so friendly and loving--it is sad to imagine their living conditions at home and the awful violence they have been exposed to in their lives.  I cannot wait to work with the people of the townships, hear their stories, and teach them all I can.


After the visit to the townships, we attended a two-hour lecture at UCT from a visiting professor.  She was a radical socialist, and the lecture turned into a heated debate between the students, our William and Mary professor, and the guest lecturer.  We discussed the pros and cons of socialism, the benefits and disadvantages of a capitalist system, and the effects of globalization.  It was very interesting hearing an alternative prospective and extremely eye-opening to see how American students feel such a strong connection to the capitalist system.  After the lecture, the eight of us continued the conversation on our own time, sharing opinions and exchanging ideas about how the world should work economically and socially.


June 25th, 2011
On Saturday we were treated to a touristy trip around the Cape Town area.  We left the dorm around 9am and took a bus tour of the Cape, starting at False Bay to see the penguins.  I laugh looking back on the experience, because something like that never would have happened in the U.S. for liability reasons. We literally opened the gate, entered the beach and could walk right up to the penguins.  There were hundred of them!  They are miniature penguins, reaching no higher than one's knee.  Many were nesting, others were waddling around in groups, and some were squawking. 


Afterwards we drove to the Cape of Good Hope, where we went for an invigorating hike, watched grazing impalas, saw aggressive baboons, and stood at the edge of high cliffs to see beautiful views of the Cape.  Once again, the terrain was like something from the Lion King and was such an out-of-body experience to see. I have taken lots of pictures, so hopefully you all will be able to share in my experience.  


The tour continued to Hoets Bay, which has serene beaches and upscale cafes.  The six of us girls ordered fancy cocktails at a restaurant that overlooked the water and toasted to Cape Town.  The SHAWCO bus took us back to the dorm, we enjoyed dinner at the dining hall, ran errands, and retuned to UCT to get ready for the evening.  Cape Town is well-renowned for it's nightlife, so we were excited to partake in the festivities. Seven of us journeyed to Long Street...which is essentially a street with bars, clubs, restaurants. and boutiques. Long Street felt a lot like Bourbon Street in New Orleans, and there were hundred of locals walking around outside. We bar-hopped all night (11pm-3am), dancing, drinking, and meeting locals.  


Running out of internet, I will post pictures soon!

Yvoire and Au Revoir!

On the Boat to Yvoire

The weather was incredible today, so Ali and I decided to take a boat ride across Lake Geneva to Yvoire, a medieval village in France.  We took the bus to Nyon, where we purchased tickets to traverse the lake.  The boat ride was wonderful, with beautiful views of the Alps, the lush coast of Switzerland, and colorful French towns.  Once we arrived in Yvoire, I could not stop taking pictures.  The village was like something out of a fairy tale.  

Flowers everywhere!

There were vibrantly colored flowers everywhere: in the windows, outside of cafes, planted in pots, etc. Ivy covered the stone walls of buildings so all you could see were windows and brightly painted shutters.  We strolled down to the docks where sailboats were lined up in a row and swans approached the bank, greeting the visitors.  Ali and I stopped at a hole-in-the-wall ice cream shop and ordered double scoops.  I chose Ferrer Rocher and Kinder flavors; such a treat on a warm day! Yvoire is very historic, with a huge chateau towering over the town and giant walls surrounding the village.  It seemed like quite a popular destination, because the trendy boutiques, art galleries, and quaint cafes were filled with people.  At the end of the day, we sat on the rocks near the rock and dipped our feet in the water before taking the boat back to Switzerland.

Medieval chateau

I would like to give a special shout-out to Ali and her family to thank them so much for hosting me this week; my European experience has been absolutely incredible.  Check out the Pictures page on the right-hand side of the blog for more snapshots from the trip.  I hope you all have enjoyed reading so far, because the adventure has only just begun!  Tomorrow I will fly across the entire continent of Africa and start my Cape Town study abroad program. Au Revoir, Europe!

Lovely cafe in Yvoire

My Day as a Real Tourist

June 20th, 2011

Front of the Palace of Nations

Yesterday was my big "touristy" experience in Geneva.  With directions in one hand, camera in the other, a bottle of water, a few Swiss francs, and absolutely no French skills whatsoever, I wandered into the European abyss on my own.  Okay that might be a little overdramatized, but in actuality I was pretty nervous about exploring the city by myself.  First of all, I had to tackle the public transportation.  First a bus, then the train, then another bus, then a short walk to the Palace of Nations.  It seemed pretty simple, but for a pampered girl who is used to driving in Los Angeles, relying on the public transportation system is an entirely new concept (yes, global warming is my fault).

View from the Palace of Nations

Ali gave me perfect directions, so I ended up getting to the United Nations just fine.  On my way from the bus stop to the Palace, I ran into a World Health Organization employee from Italy.  We chatted a bit about his job, and he was impressed with the William and Mary Model UN team's success :) The Palace of Nations in Geneva employs 8,000 people, making it the largest UN headquarters in the world. I took a guided tour of the facility, which was absolutely stunning.  The architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen; many different nations came together to donate materials and design the grounds.  Also, the view from the Palace of Nations is breathtaking.  In the foreground are the beautifully landscaped gardens of Ariana Park, and behind that are the crystal waters of Lake Geneva.  Even further are Swiss mountains, divided perfectly so you can see the French Alps through the clouds in the background.  Pictures cannot possibly capture the scene, but I have tried my best!

One of the General Assembly rooms

After the United Nations tour, I headed across the street to the Red Cross Museum.  The museum was dark and a bit spooky inside, but that is because the majority of the Red Cross's history has been dedicated to helping wounded soldiers during wartime, so there were many depressing images and statues throughout the complex.  There were hundreds of posters, artifacts, and testimonies of people affected by Red Cross.  I hadn't known much about the organization previously, but after watching quite a few videos and reading all the placards in the museum, I learned so much.  

Lake Geneva with the geyser in the background

I met up with Ali in downtown Geneva for a bit more touring.  We walked around the lake so I could snap some photos of the iconic geyser and journeyed to the famous flower clock in the English Gardens.  Afterwards we met up with Mike, another William and Mary student who lives in Geneva!  It was a sunny, warm evening, so the three of us bought a few drinks, sat on a park bench near the lake, and chatted as the sun went down and lights illuminated the cosmopolitan city. 

Famous Flower Clock!

Cultural Differences

Due to popular demand, I will be posting again today. Things are going wonderfully in Switzerland! Ali and her family are so hospitable, and spending time in the suburbs of Geneva is extremely relaxing. A few more cultural differences I have noticed:

-       All the fountains in Switzerland are drinkable…even the decorative fountains in the parks!

-       There is an appreciation of food here: The only fast food restaurant is McDonald’s, and even at McDonald’s the food is a step above the average U.S. restaurant.

-       People don’t need a 31-ounce coffee beverage (see this article) to feel satisfied, but instead sip a small espresso drink slowly while enjoying the company of those around them.

Sipping water from a fountain in Geneva 

June 18^th, 2011

Reformation Wall at the park in Geneva

Ali, Ali’s brother, Christian, and I took the bus into the city for some sushi and a nice walk around town.  I tried real Swiss chocolate, which was to die for! I had three little pieces: champagne-filled, hazelnut, and milk chocolate.  We walked to the park to enjoy more of the Fete de la Musique—this time listening to Brazilian music.  The park was gorgeous to see during the day, with a massive wall known as the “Reformation Wall” with huge statues of John Calvin and other religious and spiritual leaders in Switzerland’s history.  Also bordering the park is the University of Geneva, where Ali’s friend Ksenia attends “uni.”  It is a gorgeous campus with old European-style architecture and lots of trees everywhere.

Laughing in the downpour

Ksenia and another one of Ali’s friends joined us at the park and we proceeded to walk around Geneva to see other performers for Fete de la Musique.  Another highlight of the festival are the twenty pianos placed at various locations around the city so that everyone can play music freely and celebrate together.  We sipped punch and toured the town while listening to bands and singers, which was very enjoyable.  We also stood at the top of a hill and had an excellent view of the famous geyser that sits on the edge of Lake Geneva.  All of the sudden, however, it started to downpour and everyone started taking shelter in cafes and under buildings.  The rain was ridiculous! I felt like I was back in Virginia.  Ali and I gave up on staying dry (we hadn’t brought umbrellas), so we just walked around in the rain to the horror of sheltered onlookers.

June 19^th, 2011

Creek on the Swiss/French border

Ali and I woke up early and journeyed to a market in France, which is about a 30-minute walk from Ali’s house.  It was a beautiful day, and the stroll through the fields was quite enjoyable.  Corn, wheat, and other vegetables are grown for acres surrounding Ali’s home in the countryside, and with the huge French Alps in the background it looks like something out of a movie. Anyway, we arrived at the market and I was a bit overwhelmed by the strong smell of cheese.  There were approximately ten vendors selling cheeses, and of course I had to sample quite a few before choosing which kind to purchase.  We also sampled wine, fresh apple juice, apricots, caramel, and olives.  It was wonderful—a foodie heaven! No one was speaking English, so Ali basically had to speak for the both of us while requesting samples.  I am sure the vendors all thought I was mute or rude or something, so I weakly attempted a “Merci” each time.  We finally decided on Swiss Gruyere cheese, a loaf of olive bread, and some sun-dried tomato topping to put on bread and eat as an appetizer.

Fields near Ali's house

Living It Up in Geneva

I am having an amazing time in Geneva with Ali so far!  The weather has been a bit rainy and cloudy, but we have still stayed busy with site-seeing and partying, so I can't complain.  Europe is truly a unique place...everyone is so stylish and polite.  My favorite thing about Switzerland is how the men kiss women three times on the cheek upon meeting them.   It seems a bit excessive at first, but then you realize that they are taking the time out to greet each person with care...something that a handshake in the U.S. could never express.  Chivalry isn't dead in Europe!  Another great aspect of Swiss life is the dedication to having a good time and enjoying alcohol.  The bars and pubs are hustling and bustling with livelihood until the wee hours of the morning as the Europeans enjoy (good quality) drinks, listening to music, and dancing.  Geneva is specifically distinct in that the majority of the population is from somewhere else in the world.  Walking down the street, I always hear a handful of languages at once. English, Spanish, French, Japanese...the list goes on.  Overall, I have found Geneva to be a vibrant, beautiful town.  The rest of this blog post details my activities for the past few days...

Dancing at Dinemec Studios

June 16th, 2011
I accompanied Ali and her parents at a swanky party at Dinemec Studios in Geneva, where famous performers like Alicia Keys and Phil Collins record.  The event was like something from a movie with unlimited drinks, a buffet of delicious food, and couches positioned around the room.  The studio was entirely black, with bright lights shining on the walls to create a unique effect.  Two performers (one singer and one rapper) entertained us and a DJ kept music playing throughout the night. 

Rooftop view of Nyon

June 17th, 2011 
We started the day touring the historic town of Nyon--a quaint village that lies on the coast of Lake Geneva.  We shopped a bit in the boutiques (which left me feeling highly unfashionable and bland).  Afterwards we walked around the town taking pictures of the architecture.  Each building was painted a different shade and had brightly colored shutters...it was beautiful! We sat on the terrace of an old castle and enjoyed a view of Lake Geneva, Swiss rooftops, and green mountains.  Ali and I proceeded to enjoy the most wonderful gelato I have ever tasted.  I decided on Nutella, Cookies, and Tiramisu flavors.  

Enjoying the first night of Fete de la Musique

Later in the evening, Ali's friend, Ksenia, picked us up and took us into Geneva for beers at an Irish pub. We laughed almost the entire time and met two men from Los Angeles, which was highly coincidental.  One of them attended UVA!  What a small world.  After drinks, the three of us took the tram to the Fete de la Musique--a weekend-long outdoor music festival.  We danced and talked with other festival-goers while listening to some incredible DJs mix beats for an enthusiastic (and most likely very intoxicated) audience. It was a great night!

A little bird in Nyon

The Arrival

June 14th-15th, 2011

As I write this from the guest bedroom in Ali’s beautiful home in Geneva, I can’t believe almost two days have gone by since I left L.A. at 5:30am yesterday morning. 

Travel time: 1 hour drive to Orange County airport, 2 hour flight to Denver, 6 hour layover at the Denver Airport, 10 hour flight to Frankfurt, 2 hour layover in Frankfurt, 1 hour flight to Geneva.

Thank goodness I finally made it.  After I showered and napped at Ali’s, we took the train into town.  In Geneva, everyone uses the train system to get to and from downtown, which is such a nice difference from Los Angeles.  Once we arrived in the city and exchanged money at a bank, we walked up the street and passed a Starbucks, where a latte costs 8 francs (which is equal to about 9 U.S. dollars). Everything in Switzerland is so expensive, which is definitely going to take some getting used to!  Ali and I stopped at a bar/restaurant called Cactus and enjoyed Happy Hour with her old friend Pasi.  He was kind enough to buy us all two rounds of fancy drinks, and the bartender didn’t even ask to see our I.D.s because the drinking age is 16 for beer and wine and 18 for all other types of alcohol.  Around 9:30pm, the jetlag settled in and we took the train back to Ali’s for dinner and sleep. 

Enjoying a Tequila Sunrise at Cactus 

  

View of Geneva from the airplane

Welcome!

Hello everyone and thank you for following along.

I plan to update my blog as often as possible throughout my trips to Switzerland, Cape Town, New York, and Canada. I leave on Tuesday, June 14th for Geneva, Switzerland, where I will be staying with the lovely Ali Fleurent and her family.  For the rest of my travel plans, please visit the Itinerary page as well as Maps and Information for details about dates and locations.  I will have my laptop with me throughout the trip, so feel free to shoot me an email anytime.  My contact information can be found on the Contact page.  Please note that Geneva and Cape Town are nine hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time and six hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time.

I will be spending the majority of my summer in Cape Town, South Africa, studying and living in the dormitories at the University of Cape Town (UCT).  UCT is the oldest university in South Africa, with 23,500 undergraduate and post-graduate students.  Including myself there will be eight William and Mary students participating in the study abroad program.  We will be taking two courses: Economic Inequality in Multiracial Societies taught by W&M professor Berhanu Abegaz and a Community Engagement course through SHAWCO, a student-run non-governmental organization that helps improve the quality of life for individuals in impoverished communities in the Cape Town metropolitan area.

The University of Cape Town

Once again, thank you for taking the time to visit my blog! I am very excited for the trip, and I hope to keep in touch throughout the summer.